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Succession Planting (or "Don't Stop Now") - Part 2
(see eNewsletter #21 for part 1)
by Steve Peters
Memorial Day weekend has come and gone, and homeowners throughout North America have followed a time-honored tradition. Over these hallowed three days, gardens are duly planted, and then often ignored (except for weeding, of course!) until early August, when the harvest season commences. In fact, as we gardeners know, the gardening season never stops, and we all have favorite strategies to get our plants in early to maximize the season. But let's not forget that there are many opportunities later in the summer to continue planting all kinds of crops and reaping those harvests for many months to come.
It is true that summer annuals (crops sensitive to frost) requiring 100 or more days to maturity have a limited planting window that ends, for the most part, by mid- to late June—summer solstice time, if your first fall frost date is some time in October. This would include all tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant (all from transplants), melons, and most corn, bean, squash and pumpkin varieties. Almost all other vegetables, however, have extended planting seasons that, in some crops, can last all summer long. For successful production, the most important factors to remember are: 1) your first average fall frost date, 2) days to maturity (from direct seeding or transplanting) of the specific variety you are sowing, and 3) whether the plant is frost-tender or frost-tolerant. In addition, as the summer progresses toward mid- or late August, the day length begins to shorten noticeably, and the number of useful daylight hours for ripening a plant also lessens. For example, lettuce planted in mid-May may require 55 days to form a full head, but that same lettuce variety planted in mid-August may require 70 days to form a full head, because there are many less hours of effective sunlight in September and October compared to June and July.
The following is an approximate guide for planting opportunities after the summer solstice (June 21) for our common garden vegetables, if the average first frost date is mid-October. Adjust accordingly for earlier or later first frost dates in your area.
Last Planting: Early to Mid-JulyLast Planting: Late July–Early August
Last Planting: Mid–Late August
Last Planting: Early–Mid September
Most of the common summer annual flowers that require warm soil temperatures for germination can still be planted until the end of June. When planted late, however, the bloom season is limited to the last few weeks before the fall frosts. These species would include Amaranth, Celosia, Coreopsis, Cosmos, Daisies, Marigolds, Morning Glories, Strawflowers, Sunflowers, and Zinnias.
In a climate where the minimum winter temperatures are above 0º F (Zone 7 or warmer), many annual flowers that are particularly cold-hardy may be planted during the last month of summer (August 20–September 20). Some species, notably Larkspur, Bachelor Buttons, and Nigella, will even overwinter in Zone 5. These plants will begin growing during the fall, stop growing during the winter, and resume growth the following spring as soil temperatures rise. It is recommended to cover the young plants with straw or leaf mulch during the winter, although this may be unnecessary if winter conditions are mild.
The most reliable and well-known flower species that can be planted during late summer for early blooms during the subsequent spring include Bachelor Buttons, Calendula, Flax, Larkspur, Nigella, Snapdragon (actually a biennial or short-term perennial in very mild-winter regions), and Sweet Pea. Other species that may over-winter successfully if conditions are favorable, although not as reliably as the previously-listed species include Alyssum, Agrostemma, Borage, Cleome, Lavatera, and Scabiosa.
There are also a few annual or biennial herbs that are quite winter-hardy and can be late-summer planted and will survive the winter in regions in Zone 7 or warmer. These herbs include Cilantro, Dill, Fennel, and Parsley. It is worth trying these in colder climates too, especially if you have protected microclimates in your garden. A south-facing wall or even a boulder to hold the sun's warmth can make a difference.
Another opportunity for summer planting involves most of the perennial flowers. These plants are typically started in greenhouses during the winter. Those of us without a greenhouse, however, can prepare a nursery bed in our garden specifically for direct seeding of perennials during the summer. It is important to keep the bed free of weeds, as most perennials are very slow growing and are not competitive with fast-growing annual weeds. Be sure that your nursery bed has adequate irrigation and has at least average fertility. Plant your perennial seed at least ten weeks before the first fall frost to allow for the plants to become established before the onset of winter. The following summer, when the plants are one year old, it will be time to move these plants from the nursery bed to their permanent location in the garden. The most common perennial flower species that would be suitable for this type of propagation would include Anthemis, Bergamot, Campanula, Columbine, Shasta Daisy, Delphinium, Echinacea (requires 60–90 day cold stratification for germination), Foxglove, Gaillardia, Hollyhock (actually a biennial), Lobelia, Penstemon, Pinks (Dianthus), Evening Primrose, Rudbeckia, Salvia (many species), Snapdragon, and Yarrow (Achillea).
Planting seeds throughout the summer means that we can enjoy a bountiful harvest for a much longer time, but it also is significant in other ways. As gardeners, we are often limited for space, so it is important to maximize every square foot of available soil area. In essence we are trying to capture the greatest amount of solar energy possible in the space available to us. The best way to do this is to have 100% coverage of your garden's surface area at all times. From the information above, it should be clear that there are many plants that continue to grow and thrive throughout the summer and fall and early spring seasons. By growing different species together, no soil surface is left bare. This maximizes soil cover, intensifies soil biological activity and above-ground insect activity, and increases overall plant yields. Of course, it is essential to maintain fertility in such an intensive system, so keep that compost pile going!
The following are examples of crops growing together simultaneously for at least part of their life cycle:
There are many more examples of inter-planting for maximum production. Quick-growing plants such as radish, arugula, or cress can be sown into already-established beds of tomato, pepper, corn, or beans. Plants that are easily transplanted such as brassicas, greens, or basil can be planted into open spots throughout the garden to insure that no space is wasted. The primary limitation is the availability of water. If water is available, the only limitation is your own imagination!
The tradition of planting everything on Memorial Day and then calling the garden planted is really a myth. The far more ancient traditions of gardening cultures, such as China's, follow a sequential planting much like that outlined above. Many Asian vegetables, for example, are bred to mature very quickly, and often do better when planted later in the season. In a society where arable land is scarce, gardening all year round is more than just an efficient system. It means that the people have enough to eat. So keep on sowing for a bountiful, beautiful garden, and an extended harvest of the finest food available, organically grown in your own backyard.Steve Peters
Seeds of Change Product Development Manager
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